 Not a mirage, but a winery rising from the Inner Mongolian desert in China. In the eight or nine years that Malcolm Reeves has been a visiting professor at the China Agricultural University in Beijing he has become used to seeing what his eyes sometimes can scarcely believe. Including, on his latest visit, the transformation of Inner Mongolian desert into vineyards that will eventually cover between 2500 to 3000 hectares. Reeves, a New Zealand wine educator, researcher and consultant says some of the vines imported from France are already planted in the fairly heavy quartz sand and are, with the help of a bit of organic compost, perfectly healthy and not too vigorous. The varieties include chardonnay, cabernet and something resembling carmenere, with others to be trialled if the owners follow Reeves' advice, which includes the suggestion that they aim to simply make the best wine they can rather than imitating regional styles. The project, which includes a showpiece visitor centre and winery is near the city of Wuhai 900 kilometres from Beijing, where the climate is more extreme than Central Otago's. The project is the work of two brothers who made their fortunes in coal.
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Reeves also visited other winery developments nearer Beijing, in Ningxia province. They includ another 3000 hectares bare land, or in this case gravels development in what is known as China's Bordeaux. Both projects involve Cofco, a huge state-owned food conglomerate that also produces Great Wall wines.
The biggest of the developments includes two faux chateau (one includes the winery) a made-to-order village, golf course and wedding chapel giving it the glamorous appeal that the Chinese associate with wine.
Both currently sell all the wines they make though some, says Reeves, is decidedly ordinary and does not have a long term future. But some is very good (it can sell for $40-$100 a bottle) and better viticulture will make an even greater difference.
The big challenge, however, is still to make good, affordable wine.
The biggest of the developments includes two faux chateau (one includes the winery) a made-to-order village, golf course and wedding chapel giving it the glamorous appeal that the Chinese associate with wine.
Both currently sell all the wines they make though some, says Reeves, is decidedly ordinary and does not have a long term future. But some is very good (it can sell for $40-$100 a bottle) and better viticulture will make an even greater difference.
The big challenge, however, is still to make good, affordable wine.
 Chateau Yunmo Photos by Malcolm Reeves |  Faux French village |  A sea of tanks |
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